Sections History The True Story Behind that "Cup of Kapeng Barako"
| The True Story Behind that "Cup of Kapeng Barako" |
From a botanical viewpoint, there is no such thing as a coffee bean. What is commonly referred to as a coffee bean is really the roasted seed of the fruit of the coffee plant. But that doesn't stop coffee drinkers all over the world.
Here in California, it is a common sight to see coffee shops in almost every corner, making it just as easy to fill up on coffee as it is to fill up a car with fuel. And prices could also be just as high, if not higher than gasoline, drop for drop.
One would think that this popularity is a boon to the coffee farmer – but actually, in some cases, the contrary is true.
The Blight
Coffee was first introduced to the Philippines in 1740 by the Spaniards. By 1814 it had become the Philippine's leading export commodity and by 1880, the Philippines had become the fourth largest coffee-producing country in the world. It has been said that during the years of 1886-1888, the Philippines had become the world's sole supplier of coffee. More specifically, it was the town of Lipa in Batangas that was supplying the world with coffee.
Lipa had become one of the richest towns in the Philippines and its prosperity led to its being titled "Villa de Lipa" by the Queen Regent, Maria Cristina of Spain on October 21, 1887. The term "Villa" during those times was reserved for the affluent upper class.
Batangas had gained the title "Coffee Capital" of the Philippines and coffee production was going strong. But then in 1889, "Coffee Rust" was detected in the Philippines. "Coffee Rust" is a deadly fungal disease had already decimated the coffee plantations of Europe, South America, and Java. By 1892, only a few years later, this blight had caused the entire coffee production of the Philippines to drop down to practically zero.
The blight, and the ensuing wars that followed afterwards, made it difficult for the Philippines to recover. Almost 80 years and three wars (against the Spaniards, the Americans, and Japanese) passed before the Philippines was able to get coffee production up to the point where it could start exporting again. By that time, the other coffee-producing countries had already overtaken it considerably.
During its peak in 1986, the Philippines was able to export about 150-million dollars worth of coffee.
Nowadays, production is so bad that it can't even fill the local demand. The Philippines now has to import coffee.
The Flood
Control of coffee-bean prices rests between Brazil (it supplies about 30% of the world market) and the United States (the largest market for coffee beans). Entry into the coffee market by other countries along with the lifting of U.S. Quota restrictions has literally caused the market to flood. The price of raw coffee has dropped down so low that farmers in the Philippines could no longer make ends meet by growing coffee alone. They can't afford to spend the money to modernize production techniques so they can be competitive with the other countries. Even if they could make that investment, the volatility in market prices makes it hard to get any return. More often than not, it would be easier for them to sell their lands to developers or to look for more profitable crops to grow. Meanwhile, the few that are still producing coffee are focusing on the more marketable types of coffee such as the Coffea Arabica or Coffea canephora (Robusta).
Arabica accounts for about 75% of the world's coffee trade due to its excellent flavor and market demand. Robusta, on the other hand, grows readily where Arabica could not -- making it a good (and cheaper) alternative to Arabica. Even though it has less flavor, Robusta contains more caffeine and antioxidants and produces more foamy heads than Arabica, making it a popular ingredient in most espresso blends.
The Threat
There is another lesser-known type of coffee called Coffea Liberica. It is much rarer than the other two and is known to be indigenous in only three Asian countries (out of 70 coffee-producing countries). This type of coffee has a strong flavor and a distinct aroma. It also produces larger "beans" and it is very productive. These qualities are the reasons why the Philippine varietal of Liberica is called "Kapeng Barako". The word "Barako" referring to extra ordinary male strength or machismo.
"Barako" was first grown in the 1800s in Barangay Pinagtung-Ulan, Batangas, by the Macasaet family. It gained so much of a reputation that all types of coffee from Batangas are generically called "Barako" even if they are one of the other types. It is, by association, the definition of Batangas Coffee.
It is also, due to limited demand, awareness, and profitability, threatened with extinction.
But there is still hope. Thanks to the increasing popularity of exotic brews and blends of coffee, as well as the efforts of private industry, revival of this rarity seems to be within reach. Companies such are The Figaro Foundation Corporation have launched marketing campaigns aimed at increasing the awareness (hence, marketability) of this source of national pride. And efforts to establish new centers for coffee production are well under way in Cavite and in Mindanao. Even the government and other business sectors are getting involved.
Perhaps, with everyone’s help, we can not only save the Barako, but elevate it to its rightful status up there with the Konas and the Javas of the world. If that happens, that might just be the catalyst that the Philippine Coffee industry needs to propel it back to its old glory.
Below are some links to studies and efforts by different groups:
http://www.iamot.org/conference/viewpaper.php?id=1128&cf=4
By Amy R. Remo
Philippine Daily Inquirer
First Posted 03:28:00 10/23/2008
MANILA, Philippines--With growing local demand, the coffee industry is aiming for self-sufficiency by 2015 with a projected output of 75,000 metric tons, an industry official said.
This volume is the estimated demand for that year, given an average production increase of two percent a year, Philippine Coffee Board director Joel Lumagbas said.
In a presentation at the first National Coffee Summit, Lumagbas said the industry was expected to produce 30,000 metric tons of coffee in crop year 2008-09—about half of the current local demand estimated at 65,000 metric tons.
The crop year for coffee begins July 1 and ends on June 30 of the following year.
"The shortfall of 35,000 metric tons, which is being imported, translates to an import bill of P3.15 billion a year," Lumagbas said. "The country is expected to import 40,000 metric tons by 2010, estimated to be worth P3.6 billion."
To meet the target volume of 75,000 metric tons, Lumagbas, said the coffee sector is seeking as much as P150 million in new investments to establish 30,000 hectares of new land for the crop.
Lumagbas said the sector had never received any form of funding, subsidy or loan from the government.
"If we will not be able to get funds from the government, we intend to achieve our targets by relying on private sector initiative," he added.
Of the 30,000 hectares, about 21,000 hectares are to be established in Mindanao with its advantage of being virtually typhoon-free; 4,200 hectares in Visayas; and 4,800 hectares in Luzon.
Lumagbas urged farmers to consider investing in coffee farms or intercropping with coffee, as the sector remained profitable given the rising demand and a shortage of supply in the local market.
Some of the plants that can be intercropped with coffee include papaya, legumes, vegetables, banana, lanzones and even jatropha, he said.
"There is a ready buyer [for] coffee in the Philippines... there is also a big export market especially for wet-processed robusta coffee. The country can likewise tap the huge market for halal coffee and Barako coffee in the Middle East," he said,
The price of coffee currently stands at P84.50 a kilo, down slightly from a record-high P114 in March. Lumagbas said this was a good level, as prices of the crop had fallen to its lowest ever in 2002, to P26 a kilo.
He added that there is also a growing demand for "organic" coffee both in local and international markets.
Aside from funding, the industry is also urging the agriculture department to provide post-harvest facilities and market links to help farmers tap export markets. It is also asking the Department of Environment and Natural Resources to make available government lands for agro-forestry development.
As publicized online by Ernie Delfin, Chief Financial Officer, Healthy Coffee of Orange County, California
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